By: Darrel Koehler, Grand Forks Herald
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After a long, cold, snowy winter we patiently wait for the first crocus to poke out of a rapidly melting snow drift. But to enjoy spring-flowering bulbs next spring will require action now.
Gardeners have to plan their bulb garden, purchase or order bulbs and get them into the ground by mid-autumn. You want the bulbs to become established before winter sets in for five or more months.
There are lots of spring bulbs to choose from including hyacinths, muscari or grape hyacinths, daffodils, scilla, snowdrops and tulips. There are the traditional Darwin tulip hybrids, the parrot mix, red or yellow Emperors, cottage tulips and late or May-flowering tulips for those who can’t enough of a good thing.
You can plant bulbs just about anywhere including along the foundation, where they will get a head-start. They also work well in beds, borders and in front of shrubs. These flowers come in a range of bold and pastel colors that are sure to chase away the last of the winter blues.
Planting tips
Tulips and other bulbs prefer a light, well-drained soil. They will not thrive in low, moist areas or where water stands. They will grow well in the heavy clay soil we have in the Red River Valley if there is good drainage.
First, till the soil in your bulb bed 10 to 12 inches deep. Well-worked soil is essential to good performance of bulbs. Gardeners should plant small tulips or bulbs to a depth of 4 inches from the bottom of the hole and 4 to 6 inches apart. If you have larger bulbs, plant them 6 inches deep and 6 to 9 inches apart. There are many color combinations that work well, so experiment.
Spring bulbs can be planted anytime from September through late autumn until frost makes the task impossible. Some gardeners have even planted bulbs successfully in early November when the ground was frozen solid. Best results will be obtained if bulbs can have three weeks to root before the ground freezes. You should mulch the bed the first year, removing the mulch when sprouts pop through. If squirrels are a problem, cover the bed with chicken wire. The pests normally won’t eat daffodils, which they are said to detest.
If the bulbs are in a good location, you can leave them for several years without having to reset. In renewing a bed, dig the bulbs when the tops have begun to turn yellow. Early July would be an ideal time while you can still find the withered tops. Sort and save only healthy bulbs. Then dry well and store bulbs in shallow boxes in a cool, dry spot. Bulbs benefit from such storage and are best reset in September.
Bulbs can be purchased locally. Check bulbs for nicks or cut or if they are soft and smell like vinegar. If you order bulbs, do so soon and leave a note with your order explaining our early planting season. When planting, the bulb should be placed pointy-end down.
Tulip time
Every decade, the Floriade is held in The Netherlands, and it’s set for the spring of 2012. A Fargo-based tour company is planning a trip to this event as well as other companies. The Prairie Gardener has been told that Ron Smith and his wife, Betsy, will be on the tour. Smith is a NDSU extension horticulturist. Various stops are planned in the Low Countries, which should be a trip to long remember. More information will be available later.
Lawn care
Lawns greened up considerably after we had heavy rains earlier in the month. Lawns have had a tough year. The long winter resulted in considerable snow mold last spring. Then we had a long, cool spring that often came accompanied with too much moisture. Smothering heat and humidity followed.
Despite that scenario, lawns look good. It’s getting late to apply fertilizer, but you still have a small window if you do so immediately. You should do so before mid-September. Research indicates that the grass will be unable to efficiently use the added nutrients in time before freeze-up. Late application will also promote lush, green growth just as winter is settling in, too
If you are planning to re-seed thin or distress spots in your lawn, do that immediately, too. You want the grass seed to sprout and become established before onset of winter. Your other option is to re-seed those areas next spring just as the frost comes out of the ground. Temperatures should remain cool then and the soil will be moist so the seeds will quickly sprout.
If you are going to both replant and fertilize this fall, first seed and then apply the fertilizer. You should apply a fertilizer meant for newly seeded lawns. If we have a dry autumn, be sure to water seeded areas regularly. Also water established lawns and newly planted trees. It is especially important that conifers go into winter well-watered.
Continue mowing grass as long as it keeps growing. You might want to cut your lawn at the 2-inch or less more mark the final time. This will help ease the snow mold problem. However, don’t scalp the grass. Once leaves start to drop, keep them raked or gathered up so they won’t smother the grass.
Autumn is considered the best time to go after broad-leaf perennial weeds such as dandelion and creeping Charlie. Broad-leaf herbicides are less likely to damage non-targeted plants this time of year. Weeds are also enjoying a growing spurt, so they will take in more of the weed killer.
Don’t apply herbicide on newly planted lawns. Deal with annual weeds, such as crab grass, in spring.
Koehler is the Herald’s garden columnist. Send garden questions to him in care of the Grand Forks Herald, Box 6008, Grand Forks ND58206-6008. Tune in the weekly gardening show airing at 1:30 p.m. Tuesdays on KNOX Radio 1310 (A.M.).
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