Once every 10 years, the Dutch select a swathe of open land, plant tulips and a host of other Blooms, construct a few stylish pavilions and invite countries from around the globe to set up stalls and show off their blossoming best. The occasion is Floriade, a sort of flower Olympics – or, to put it more correctly, the "World Horticultural Expo".
Floriade 2012 has attracted participants from as far afield as Thailand and Slovakia, Bolivia and Bhutan. It has already been listed by CNN in its top 10 world destinations for the year. And it is not only about flowers – trees, herbs, fruit and veg all get a good show-in, as do environmental topics, and all manner of doings in the world of plants.
This time round, Floriade is taking place north-west of the town of Venlo, in the province of Limburg, near the German border. And the figures are impressive: 1.8 million bulbs, 5,000 rose bushes, 190,000 perennials and 3,000 trees, all spread over some 160 acres.
Previously, much of the park was fallow farmland, interspersed by ancient woodland. The woods have been left intact – though in parts sown with wild flowers. "There's an old chapel dedicated to St John among the trees," my guide told me. "He is the patron saint of asparagus."
Between the woods lies parkland with plants and shrubs that will come into flower in waves and surges through the season. There are more formally landscaped features, too, and bravura architectural flourishes: a giant wooden egg shape housing displays of futuristic green technology; a white croquet-hoop high-rise for offices; and the Villa Flora, which boasts the largest indoor flower exhibition in Europe, including elephants made out of orchids from Thailand, zany flower art and sculptural arrangements from Japan.
As I walked around the park, just before the official opening, people in reflective jackets were digging at flower beds, working frantically at pavilions and laying out lawns. Literally. A mound of soil turned into a grassy hillock before my eyes. An orchestra rehearsed for the opening ceremony on the floating stage of a lakeside amphitheatre. Electricians were tinkering with the giant outdoor screen on which disgruntled dads and other non-plant-lovers will be able to watch the Olympics and the European Championships, while those with greener fingers have fun elsewhere.
Eighty feet above my head, cable cars moved quietly over a geometric rose garden, with views for passengers across the entire park. But for me the greatest delights were at ground level. With an electronic scanner, I walked around a scented garden, beeping at bar codes on plants that looked or smelled enticing, and clocking up how successful I would be as a bee, were I selecting flowers to gather pollen or honey.
Then it was into a pavilion built around a beehive to peer through glass at the live creatures or track their movements on a computer screen. Each bee was fitted with a tiny electronic chip: "13.55.58 Adele left the hive; 13.56.03 Vivian re-entered the hive". On the way out were some very chic beekeepers' hoods, designed by students at a local fashion academy.
Farther on, I found more traditional natural displays – a garden of ancient plant varieties native to Greece, a Celtic calendar of different trees corresponding to lunar months, a tropical glasshouse resplendent with orchids, an avenue of 120 unusual trees from around the world. And there are hi-tech installations, too, such as a giant world globe, where you walk over a glass floor with a bird's-eye view of bulb fields projected below.
Work by designers such as Japanese conceptual architect Toyo Ito (responsible for circular benches in the central fountain plaza) could be seen alongside gardens created by leading Dutch landscapers. Winners of a national competition for both professional and amateur garden designers have had their creations realised – with a last-minute addition. The design submitted by 12-year-old Tosca Kettler so delighted judges that they gave her a special prize, and her garden – complete with watering-can fountain, multicoloured parasols and a bright blue wall – stands together with (and to my mind rather eclipses) the rest.
The writer Gertrude Stein (she of "a rose is a rose is a rose" fame) once said that the reason she enjoyed going to museums was for the pleasure of looking out of their windows. And looking beyond Floriade, there is pleasure aplenty.
North Limburg, where the park is located, is renowned for its restaurants and fresh produce (especially asparagus and strawberries). The River Maas meanders through the region, past villages, monasteries, and "castles" (semi-fortified manor houses of the old nobility). And as Floriade is a good two hours' journey from Schiphol airport in Amsterdam, it makes sense, if that is your point of arrival, to make more than a day trip of it.
I lingered, cycling along the river to the village of Baarlo, with its four rather fetching castles, and visiting Arcen, which has a much grander manor house that comes surrounded by an old garden, including a renowned Rosarium that features everything from original 17th-century roses to the latest hybrids.
In Venlo itself, I took in the Limburgs Museum, which has just completed a new extension to house a
13th-century mikveh (Jewish ritual bath), discovered during excavations to build a nearby shopping centre.
13th-century mikveh (Jewish ritual bath), discovered during excavations to build a nearby shopping centre.
Next door, I indulged myself in a private passion. I love museums based on eccentric personal collections, and the Museum van Bommel van Dam is up there with the quirkiest. Maarten and Reina van Bommel van Dam crammed their Amsterdam apartment with modern art, but in 1969 left around 1,000 works to the city of Venlo – provided that the local council built a museum with a bungalow attached for them to live in, and a connecting door so they could visit their collection after hours.
More indulgence followed, at the Valuas restaurant, where brothers Marcel and Eric Swaghoven have notched up a well-deserved Michelin star. The waiter apologised for a cherry garnish that came from distant Nijmegen (45 miles away), as he served a magnificent multi-course meal comprising almost entirely of local produce, and starring goose liver cooked in an elderberry jus, with traditional peperkoek (sweet biscuit) spices.
As I worked my way beyond the goose liver, through pigeon breast with salsify and chanterelles to dessert, I fancied that if such belt-busting feasts as this were to be a by-product of Floriade, it was perhaps just as well that it came round only once a decade.
Getting there
Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport, served by British Airways (0844 493 0787;ba.com), easyJet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) and others is just over two hours from Venlo by train or car. Eindhoven airport, about 40 minutes away, is served by Ryanair (0871 246000; ryanair.com) and CityJet (0871 663 3777; cityjet.com).
Eurostar (08432 186186; eurostar.com) has services from London to Amsterdam from £99 return, with a journey time of 4 hrs 40mins.
Getting around
A shuttle bus runs regularly from Venlo railway station to the Floriade site. Sixt car hire (sixt.co.uk) has offices at Schiphol airport and in the region, and offers competitive deals. Or do it the Dutch way – many hotels have guest bicycles available, or hire from Lemmen Tweewielers, Wal 2, Arcen (473 2190; lemmentweewielers.nl).
When to go
A harsh end to winter means that Floriade is getting off to a muted start, but tulips, daffodils and other spring bulbs should be in bloom by the middle of the month. Roses should start appearing by the end of May, then come the lilies, gladioli, other summer bulbs and perennials.
Floriade by water
River Cruise Line (0844 544 6437; rivercruiseline.co.uk) includes Floriade on several of its cruises this year. Its five-day Dutch Bulbfields Cruise, for example, includes a day’s excursion to Floriade and Keukenhof Gardens, from £299 per person, departing on April 26.
The inside track
A number of farmers and restaurateurs has got together to ensure local produce starred on menus and to keep culinary traditions alive. Look for restaurants with a green-and-gold “Gilde” sign, or check the list atstreekrestaurants.nl.
A prime cycling spot is around the village of Baarlo and along the Maas river to the monastery town of Steyl.
In Venlo, check out Jodenstraat, a charming alley of cafés, boutiques and speciality shops.
Pack your swimming trunks. At Thermalbad Arcen (473 2424;thermaalbad.nl) on the outskirts of Arcen, healing hot springs bubble up from depths. You can take the waters or have a massage. Entrance €12.50/£10.30.
Museum van Bommel van Dam (Deken van Oppensingel 6, Venlo; 351 3457; lustforlimburg.com); Limburgs Museum (Keulsepoort 5, Venlo; 352 2112; lustforlimburg.com).
Do some shopping: a garden shop at Floriade stocks bulbs galore. Buy local produce, such as Livarano cured sausage, genever from De IJsvogel distillery, or Limburgse stroop (fruit molasses). Ria Joosten (Boerderijweg 4a, Neer; 475 495021, call first), has a deli selling regional specialities.
The garden at Castle Arcen (473 1822; kasteeltuinen.nl) – its rose garden in particular – is of world renown. There are more roses at De Rozenhof in the village of Lottum, and a magnificent 18th-century monastery garden at De Jochemhof in Steyl (750 2625; jochumhof.nl).
The best hotels
Hotel Arcense Herberg £
A cosy, family-run country inn in Arcen (0031 77 473 1676;arcenseherberg.nl; from €85/£70).
A cosy, family-run country inn in Arcen (0031 77 473 1676;arcenseherberg.nl; from €85/£70).
Hotel Valuas ££
This peaceful Venlo hotel offers quietly hip riverside rooms (354 1141;valuas-hr.nl; from €137.50/£114).
This peaceful Venlo hotel offers quietly hip riverside rooms (354 1141;valuas-hr.nl; from €137.50/£114).
Château de Raay £££
An “art hotel” in Baarlo that lives up to its name, decorated throughout with works from the owners’ private collection, and situated in an old manor house (321 4000; sandton.eu/baarlo; from €189/£157).
An “art hotel” in Baarlo that lives up to its name, decorated throughout with works from the owners’ private collection, and situated in an old manor house (321 4000; sandton.eu/baarlo; from €189/£157).
The best restaurants
Sjef, Arcen ££
Imaginative modern cuisine, with a great view over the pretty town square. Around €34.50/£29 per head (Raadhuisplein 7; 473 4697;restaurantsjef.nl).
Imaginative modern cuisine, with a great view over the pretty town square. Around €34.50/£29 per head (Raadhuisplein 7; 473 4697;restaurantsjef.nl).
Valuas, Venlo £££
Michelin-star meals with a local twist and, not surprisingly, the best food in the region (St Urbanusweg 11; 354 1141; valuas-hr.nl).
Michelin-star meals with a local twist and, not surprisingly, the best food in the region (St Urbanusweg 11; 354 1141; valuas-hr.nl).
What to avoid
Although there are plenty of indoor attractions, Floriade works best outdoors; avoid poor weather with hourly forecasts at buienradar.nl.
Avoid the rush. Arriving at around 10.30am means you'll miss the early surge at 10am opening, yet still have plenty of time to see it all.
